Consider doing the maintenance as something you need to do anyway and it might just fix the problem, but at least it will make looking for it easier. They said it would be on them and only thing i was charged for was a belt to put on. You may have a line disconnected or loose. I checked the oil and it was very low, so i added some. Under the hood I noticed that the right battery terminal with the big red rubber cover was heavily corroded.
Sometimes things are a simple fix. Try to restart the engine. You can tell by looking behind the motor at the intake manifold. I will check timing in the morning. Once that is all taken care of, you should be able to start 'er up and give it a spin, 10 minutes in the neighborhood should be enough to get the battery holding a solid charge for a while, and if it dies again you're looking at either the battery no longer holding a charge or the alternator not producing enough charge. I rested it on what was left of the screw in the terminal to see if a connection could be made and tried to start it again however there was no noticeable difference. Edit Wow, thanks for the good advice! If it starts and dies, it is probably your fuel pump.
The fact that my car is turning over means it can't be locked up right?? Do you have bright white spark at all four plugs? Silly little things can cause very big problems in the near future. My guess is that the connector is comming loose over time due to vibrations from the engine as well as from the road - vehicle interactions as the car is driven. It will keep running after I disconnect the jumper cables so I don't think it's the alternator. Get someone to turn it over and see if it is getting spark. Can you check for spark at the plugs? Check your fuel pressure, spark, timing and air flow meter. Car would not turn over at all 2 days ago.
A gentle tap on the electrode from setting them down can do it. Most Hondas have interference motors, so hopefully it didn't cause damage if it jumped a few teeth. Bought the car in Aug of 2011 Drove it, and months later i checked the oil again. Cause and effect is much more reliable. This could be an expensive problem and right now it's just trying to rule out some simple things that could be a problem or it will need to go in for diagnosis and repair with what I see.
If it cranks at normal speed it's ok for a couple tests and then you may need to jump it again for even testing anything. I was surprised how many people have actually experienced this. If you call your Honda Parts Dept. They had taken the time to learn of a recall that was for a bolt that backed out of a pulley. If it is it is probably the starter. After replacing so many items on my accord to nail down the idle issue, it ended up being a faulty intake manifold gasket.
While you're in the bay dealing with the battery you also would probably do well to check your grounds. If the fuel gauge or sending unit is malfunctioning, it may appear that there is gas in the tank when it is in fact empty. I have new battery, cables. Your title indicates a different problem than your question, but I assume the question indicates your problem, that the car, since you repaired it, just takes a lot longer to start up and then runs fine. You did mention corrosion on the connectors which is more likely a chalky substance. Getting spark, fuel and compression. Usually that happens on the older 90's to mid 90's Honda cars.
Will see if that does it. The Key was to park in the shade the whole day or open the hood to let cooler air circulate and wait at least 4-5 minutes with all power off key out of ignition and then trying again. Now 8-13-2012 i am still having the problem when i go to crank the car it acts like it is not wanting to turn over. Thank you Please or to join the conversation. Does my fuel pump need replacing? Sadly, I know this sound well.
I would assume that something changed either as a result of the work you did or the reason for the work - the loss of coolant or the loss of oil. Checking connection at the battery 2. I had it towed to Mazda, and it started fine at the dealership with a rough idle. Turn on the headlights and check for a dead battery. Towed to dealer extended warranty covered and they said it was a bad battery. This just further urked me as I realized they had probably left the ignition on all night and drained the battery!! It's not impossible that the gunk in question was so bad that it prevented a solid connection from the alternator to the battery.
Starting problems in your Honda Civic can be frustrating to diagnose. So I attempted to remove the corrosion. I always start with getting all the recommend maintenance caught up. Take some electrical cleaner or rubbing alcohol and clean the posts on the battery as best you can with a paper towel, then let 'em dry shouldn't take long with any alcohol based cleaner and then coat them with dielectric grease to help ensure you have a good connection, and to prevent corrosion going forward. Tighten the bolts that connect the carburetor or throttle body to the intake manifold and the bolts that connect the intake manifold to the engine. Without equipment you could just leave jumper cables hooked up for 10 minutes with a donor car that's running should keep the battery up to par and rule it out for the moment.
Appreciate if you can give me some advice about this situation. Make sure fuel is fresh and not stale from aging over time. Another thing to look at in addition to what the others suggested is the distributor - on those cars, you rotated the distributor back and forth to set the timing, and if you somehow managed to knock it loose, you could get this symptom. Started 3 months after purchase. My 1994 honda civic dx won't start. Turn the key off, the turn on and it would fire.