I have one opinion that says I should be able to hook up the electrial wire to the encoder motor before installing it and put it in neutral through the dashboard switch, then install it. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information. Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Replacement Transfer Case Motor Information The transfer case in your Chevy Silverado is attached to the transmission and is responsible for carrying the power created in the transmission to the drive shaft. It's actually pretty easy to check the motors too as you should hear a clunk or a loud click from under the vehicle when you push the button. Supposedly these new encoder motors are shipping in the neutral position. It's really not that hard but it did take me about 2 hrs. I was just passing on what I had read about them, and it seems like it ended up being a non-issue for you.
Note the square hole in the white plastic piece. Bring the drive shaft down and get it out of the way. Should your transfer case motor begin to fail, you will notice decreased power to your wheels when you are in four-wheel or all wheel drive modes. I got an 11mm wrench. If you come up from the driver's side door, you can see here is your transfer case. I have my chimes go off so you can hear.
Check him out here: Music by Joakim Karud. The transfer case engages when your Silverado 1500 is in all-wheel or four-wheel drive mode. Warning signs will alert you ahead of time. In the service manual there is a testing procedure that gets you places when trying to figure out if the push button switch is bad. I don't know if I can fully rely on the indicator light. Any thoughts as to how I can get the transfer case into neutral manually??? The brake control resistance was in spec but when power was applied, it would not allow the motor to spin and change modes, it stayed locked.
I want to flip it over the other side, start the other collar on and make sure that the u joint goes evenly into the axle and then tighten it up slowly. We have a little clip here and carefully remove this. There are three bolts that hold the transfer case shift motor in place. Again, it has the gray lock that pulls straight out, then you can separate the connector. Will this do any damage to the new encoder motor? I had the negative cable off for about three hours while I worked on it.
Good enough place, I'm kind of peeking, I can see the backside through the motor. Again, it has the gray lock that pulls straight out, then you can separate the connector. MikeyZ - how have you installed the parts you got from the junkyard? Do I need to do something or just put it all back as I found it? You'll need a new transfer case shift motor from 1A Auto. My fix was to lower the brake control spring tension, I cut off half a turn from the spring. Ramps or jack stands should be sufficient. I took some pictures if anyone is interested.
I reassembled the brake control solenoid and applied power, no luck. The problem ended up being the brake control solenoid in the transfer case motor. These can include grinding noises from the transfer case. Install the front propeller shaft. This forum is meant only for members who wish to post the specific steps to complete a project or modification of some sort. New motor from 1A Auto.
A little bit of dirt on there. Refer to Propeller Shaft Replacement - Front in Propeller Shaft. Just a little fyi for you guys wanting to do this repair. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Ratio: The second number in the size represents the aspect ratio of the tire. I'm 62 and don't get up off the floor real well anymore.
Probably need to pull that right out. I don't tighten it up much right now. Go right in and out of four wheel drive. I tested my theory by disabling the brake control, reassembling the transfer case motor and putting it back in the truck. Make sure there's no dirt on there. .